Bartram Canoe Trail
by Larry McDuff
February 11-13, 2005
Last weekend, several members of the Mobile Bay Canoe and Kayak Club paddled for three days in the Mobile Delta, visiting all the floating platforms, recently installed for camping by the Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources.
We left two cars at Rice Creek Landing near Stockton, then traveled north to Hubbard's Landing on Tensaw Lake. With water levels higher than normal, we had a pull against the current to Big Beaver Creek. Keeping left at every junction, we navigated a maze of intersecting waterways to the northernmost platform behind Canal Island.
Unloading the lawn chairs from my canoe, we settled in for an evening of luxurious camping on the spacious platform, which is partially covered in case of rain. After watching a beautiful sunset through the trees, we dined on salads served by Bob and angel-hair pasta with stir-fried vegetables cooked by Juli.
The rest of the evening was spent listening to a chorus of barred owls, watching the new moon set, and looking for shooting stars.
The next morning we backtracked around Canal Island into Napp Lake, followed by a long westward paddle through Stiggins Lake. The high waters, flowing swiftly through Minnow Slough, provided the most challenging paddling of the trip, but we soon reached the Tensaw River and an easy downstream ride.
Just past Middle Creek, we stopped at a designated land campsite for a snack, then proceeded down river to a right turn on Bottle Creek, to visit the large Indian mound on Mound Island. Historical markers designate the beginning and end of the trail to the mound. Trees downed by Hurricane Ivan slowed our progress, but we soon reached the mound and climbed to the top for lunch. Another kayak club group, on a day trip out of Rice Creek, joined us there.
Backtracking up Bottle Creek, we turned right into Bayou Jessamine, beginning a swift downstream run interrupted by one short portage around a fallen tree. We turned left into Jug Lake, following it to the other end and our platform for the night. Arriving early, we had plenty of time for reading. In the warm sunshine, I managed a quick bath in the cool waters of Jug Lake.
After Bob's customary salad I served vegetarian chili made with Ann's recipe. Everyone seemed impressed with my cooking.
Sunday, we left Jug Lake and continued downstream on Bayou Jessamine to Tensaw Lake, which we followed north to Dead Lake Island. The last two platforms are located across from each other on a small slough to the left, just past Bayou Tallapoosa. Nine people from Mobile had spent Saturday night there and about to leave when we arrived.
We paddled south to Rice Creek on the east side of Richardson Island, where we saw a mink playing beside the water. Bird sightings included wood ducks, hooded mergansers, black and turkey vultures, double crested cormorants, blue herons, red-tailed hawks, laughing gulls, Foster's terns, and belted kingfishers.
The platforms are available for a fee of $20 a night to any group touring the Delta by canoe or kayak. For maps and reservations visit the Bartram web site at www.outdooralabama.com/outdoor-adventures/bartram. For canoe rentals, outfitting, and shuttle service contact Bob at Sunshine Canoes, 344-8664.
Kayak club trips are open to everyone. For information visit the club's web site at www.baykayaker.blogspot.com.
Thursday, February 03, 2005
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